30 July 2007

Porkolt - Bon appetit

Jo etvagyot kivanok... No point translating this in english, as the english language seems suddenly devoid of its famous gentlemanness when it comes to sharing a meal. Hungarian, pragmatic as it is, is not devoid of this basic quality! What is more special about 'having supper' together in Hungary, is that it could be anything for dinner, lunch, supper - or even breakfast...
I am coming to the main topic, none other than the famous "PORKOLT", a special hungarian meat recipy (there is a vegetarian version with mushrooms, but vegetarians aren't the most welcome in Magyarorszag, I couldn't say). I did have it for breakfast a few times, sometimes before going to bed at 5 o'clock, it's so good and familiar too...
Many miles have been travelled since my first omelette in Debrecen, since home-made pizzas and Tesco Baked beans. Now is the true hungarism, the good and holy porkolt (no not the graal).
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Jo etvagyot kivanok... Un bon apetit hongrois, diner ensemble les memes delices qu'au petit dejeuner, le repas du midi, et tant d'autres repas que je confonds et reconfonds a tout bout de champ. L'inconditionel plat hongrois, et c'est la que l'on arrive au sujet du jour, est le tres grand et celebre "PORKOLT", une recette de viande typiquement hongroise (il y a une version vegetarienne avec des champignons, mais de toute maniere les vegetariens ne seront jamais "at home in Magyarorszag"). Je l'ai meme eu quelque fois pour le petit-dejeuner, parfois avant d'aller au lit quand le coucou criait 5 heures du matin, apres tout c'est si bon et familier...
Disons que j'ai parcouru bien des kilometres depuis mon omelette a Debrecen, depuis les pizzas faites maison et les bakes beans de Tesco. Nous voila au point H, le vrai Hungaricum, le grand Porkolt.


Imagine 10 kilos of freshly bought and cleaned meat in two big buckets, ready to be gentled in a wonderfuly spiced sauce (god I feel like a cooking channel). Paprika, tomatoes, ognions, garlic, black pepper, and many special hungarian addings (sauces from Liddl... well that's the real secret behind it). All on a strong fire burning gently but surely ("lentement mais surement" the french would say) in the small circle of cookers gathered for the occasion. Who cooks a Porkolt? Well everyone does, because it's family, so the least people do is drink to the health of the Porkolt, to the health of the people caring for the food - directly - for 4 long but brilliant hours. Patience is family in this case, and care once again. is it care for your neighbours' health? Well people in Hungary drink so much and so often 'to the health' of each other, that one tends to wonder what it really means yonder.
After this long caring business, a loving afternoon you also spent having breaks on Wine, Beer and Palinka (if you're lucky) - the real hungarian health care - you gather in the kitchen around carefully selected Wine (the kind that makes you forget the one you drunk in the afternoon), around carefully loved ones, among the fruit of real work together.
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Imaginez 10 kilos de viandes fraichement achetee et decoupee dans deux grands recipients, prets a etre calines dans une sauce epicee magnifiquement preparee (et bien je ferais une bonne chaine de cuisine, ca c'est sur!). Du Paprika, des tomates, des ognions, de l'ail, du poivre, et plein de petits rajouts hongrois (des sauces de Liddl... mais faut pas le dire). Le tout sur un feu doux qui brule lentement mais surement au centre du cercle de cuisiniers rassembles pour l'occasion. Qui cuisine donc le Porkolt? Et bien tout le monde a vrai dire, parce que c'est la famille, donc la moindre des choses c'est de boire un coup a la sante du Porkolt, a la sante des gens qui s'en occupent de plus pret durant 4 longues mais superbes heures. La patience est ici familiale, et une question de soin et de soutien encore une fois. Est-ce une attention portee a la santee du voisin? Disons que les gens boivent tellement en Hongrie et tellement souvent 'a la sante' des autres, que l'on fini par se demander ce que cela signifie vraiment.
Apres ces longues besognes de soins, un apres-midi d'amour passe a faire des pauses de vin, de biere et de Palinka (si vous avez de la chance) - le vrai service de sante hongrois - vous vous retrouvez dans la cuisine autour de vin cette-fois ci selectionne avec attention pour l'occasion (le genre qui vous ferait oublier celui bu dans l'apres-midi), autour de bien-aimes, autour du fruit de la vraie labeur!
After that you're ready for a good boogie...

Ensuite prets a secouer les hanches...

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